Rain forest or jungle, whatever you call it it’s hot and sticky and the place to see the wild animals of Sabah.

We started on the gentle side in Sepilok staying at the Nature Lodge for three nights. We arrived late at the bus stop and were fortunate and grateful that there was one enterprising taxi driver waiting there to see if anyone needed a ride. Our constant good fortune and the kindness of strangers who help us along the way is another thing for which I continue to be grateful.

Over the next three days we visited the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and the Rainforest Discovery Center.

It has changed a bit at the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center since Paul visited 45 years ago.

We now have to keep our distance to avoid passing diseases between species. But it was still great fun to watch this orangutan at the feeding station. We found out later that she is pregnant so all the more important that she has this backup nutrition. She is living on her own in the wild next to the center.

Our time at the Rainforest Discovery Center was early in the morning but although we could hear birds, we were unable to see any of them. We enjoyed the intro in the visitors center and the canopy walk and just spending time in the trees.

We also spent one day in Sandakan following the Heritage Trail to the oldest mosque, Chinese temple and Catholic Church.

We spent some time at the Agnes Keith house.

I had read her book Land Below the Wind before coming here. Now I want to read her other books including Three Came Home about her time (along with her son and husband) in the Japanese prison camp during WWII. I love her personal style of writing and now can better picture the places she describes. We also stumbled upon an exhibit dedicated to adventure movie makers Martin and Osa Johnson.

Something to add to our watch list – the films they made in Borneo. Our final stop was the war memorial park that told the story of the prisoner of war camps and the death marches that left Sandakan for Ranau.

It renews my commitment to building peace when we read about the horrible cost and cruelty of war.

Next stop was the Nature Lodge in Kampung Bilit on the Kinabatagan River. We had many opportunities for viewing wildlife while cruising in a small power boat on the river.

Though some had said the time there was relaxed, we found ourselves almost constantly busy between eating, tea and activities. When we had a little time between things we enjoyed meeting our fellow tourists from many parts of the world. Who has time to rest?

We had a couple more days to fill so we paid a visit to the Tabin Wildlife Sanctuary where we saw more flora than fauna, but also did get a foot soak and an experience of the jungle.

We got one more chance for wildlife viewing when former student, Fong Lim, took us to Semporna for snorkeling. It was a lazy and wonderful way to peak below the surface as if entering a giant fish tank. We didn’t have an underwater camera, so these from the surface will give you some idea.

Climbing Mount Kinabalu was an amazing experience but was very physically challenging. Our first recovery step was the natural hot springs at Poring. Our long decent time meant the pools were closed when we arrived that night.

Luckily the restaurant was still open with good food and beer. And we were delighted to still have the company of Julien, our “partner in climb”. It was a good opportunity to reminisce about the climb and descent experience.

After a good night’s rest our sore bodies were ready for the hot pools. Our timing was perfect and we had the place to ourselves- just after the morning rain and before the crowds arrived.

The smell of sulfur was heavy in the air. Each tiled pool has a hot and cold spigot to blend to your own preference because the water directly from the spring is scalding hot and still uncomfortably hot to the touch after it has been cooled in open pools at the back of the pool area.

With just the right mix the temperature of our pool was perfect to ease our tired and aching muscles.

A quick dip in the rock pool to cool off then…

Time for a good breakfast

and well, we have enough time before our transport leaves- lets do the canopy walk. Oh wait we didn’t think about the fact that getting up to canopy level meant more climbing! And where is Roger? We miss our guide from the mountain! It’s not the same as a threesome. But the swinging bridges were fun- although a bit scary- the views were great and the company was the best. We laughed as we winced our way down the stairs at the end and then had to race to be on time for our pick up.

One quick stop on our way to see the Rafflesia that is in bloom. We pay our 30 Ringgits at the roadside shack and Paul asks the young girl why she is not in school today. The reason soon becomes apparent -she is our guide and is working today. A short drive up the dirt driveway and our guide leads us through the jungle over a bamboo bridge to a small fenced in area where with wondering eyes we viewed one of the world’s largest flowers.

Nearby were spent blossoms as well as buds of various sizes that will open in their own time. An open flower only lasts 5 days. Now that I’ve had a chance to read more I realize how important it is that this family is protecting these flowers. They are endangered partly due to their narrow neiche- only feed on one particular vine and must cross pollinate with another flower of the opposite sex all in less than a week of open time. Add to that the loss of forest habitat.

So I’m struck by the thought that especially where economies are challenged, we need an economic value for the environment. Though many want to do the right thing in terms of caring for the environment, they also may face tough choices in supporting their family. When a family like this one can make money from tourists who want to see this rare flower, it gives another incentive to protect it. We need to support these small scale efforts as best we can, because little efforts add up and might make the difference in a species survival.

Now off we went, stopping in Ranau at the bus stop where Paul and I would wait for the bus to Sandakan. Julien was continuing on to the park headquarters where he would catch a transport back to Kota Kinabalu. It was difficult to say goodbye. We’d been through a lot together in three short days. Julien is a much stronger climber, but he had chosen to stick with us as a team throughout the experience, only going ahead to get a shot of the sunrise (where he then waited for us for pictures on Low’s Peak) and to have breakfast set aside for us when we were too slow coming back from the peak. It said much to me of his character. Julien, I do hope our paths cross again – you make a great travel partner and even better friend. Maybe a cross-country ski marathon at the American Birkebeiner or a trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in Minnesota?

Our climb of the mountain was so much more than the physical challenge – the altitude had quite a negative effect on me as well as being hard on the knees. The mountain permitted us to climb her. We had good weather. My will held out even when I was clinging in terror to the rope to pull myself up the steepest rocks and I really didn’t want to do this anymore. Roger was so kind and gentle giving a hand and careful guidance when needed as well as patiently waiting as I stopped to catch my breath every five steps. The emotions of the experience were many and complex. In addition to terror (very limited) and tired, I was honored to walk in a place where so many had walked before me. It was so beautiful to be there with Paul as he returned to the mountain to revisit this portion of his Sabah experience. Reaching the highest point at Low’s Peak was an important experience, but my favorite part was walking on the top of the mountain below the peak. It is a vast open bare landscape that looks like what I imagine the moon to look like. Here and there are bits of vegetation that has managed to survive these harsh conditions, but mostly it’s swirled and patterned grey rock. It’s awe inspiring in it’s simplicity and majesty. It seemed like another world and then in the same day we were back at the park headquarters at the bottom of the mountain and being whisked away in a van.

With all this swirling in my mind, we took one last picture and gave one final wave to Julien and we settled in to wait at the bus stop.

Paul began making friends with all the others who came to wait – the four Australian young ladies who had just finished their mountain climb and the locals with whom he shared the books in his pack of Mt Kinabalu and Borneo. It was fun to see everyone looking at the books with great interest – so many beautiful pictures.

When the bus arrived there were no seats available but with some pleading on our part and the advocacy of a new Malaysian friend we were able to get two plastic stools wedged in by the bathroom and the Australian women got to sit on the floor. Eventually we all got seats as other passengers got off the bus. Thus began our next adventure to Sepilok and Sandakan.

– Mindy