So proud of my former students and teaching colleagues who have created this event in KK (Kota Kinabalu) May 12 hosted…
Roti telor Chinese style with Fong Lin in Tawau b4 leaving for snorkeling in Sempourna
On top of Mount Kinabalu. You can hear the strong wind blowing.
Dawn on top of the mountain.
Making our way back from the summit with guide, Roger, and our friend and climbing partner, Julien.
The canopy walk at Poring Hot Springs with Julien – the day after climbing the mountain together. We are all missing Roger.
Climbing Mount Kinabalu was an amazing experience but was very physically challenging. Our first recovery step was the natural hot springs at Poring. Our long decent time meant the pools were closed when we arrived that night.
Luckily the restaurant was still open with good food and beer. And we were delighted to still have the company of Julien, our “partner in climb”. It was a good opportunity to reminisce about the climb and descent experience.
After a good night’s rest our sore bodies were ready for the hot pools. Our timing was perfect and we had the place to ourselves- just after the morning rain and before the crowds arrived.
The smell of sulfur was heavy in the air. Each tiled pool has a hot and cold spigot to blend to your own preference because the water directly from the spring is scalding hot and still uncomfortably hot to the touch after it has been cooled in open pools at the back of the pool area.
With just the right mix the temperature of our pool was perfect to ease our tired and aching muscles.
A quick dip in the rock pool to cool off then…
Time for a good breakfast
and well, we have enough time before our transport leaves- lets do the canopy walk. Oh wait we didn’t think about the fact that getting up to canopy level meant more climbing! And where is Roger? We miss our guide from the mountain! It’s not the same as a threesome. But the swinging bridges were fun- although a bit scary- the views were great and the company was the best. We laughed as we winced our way down the stairs at the end and then had to race to be on time for our pick up.
One quick stop on our way to see the Rafflesia that is in bloom. We pay our 30 Ringgits at the roadside shack and Paul asks the young girl why she is not in school today. The reason soon becomes apparent -she is our guide and is working today. A short drive up the dirt driveway and our guide leads us through the jungle over a bamboo bridge to a small fenced in area where with wondering eyes we viewed one of the world’s largest flowers.
Nearby were spent blossoms as well as buds of various sizes that will open in their own time. An open flower only lasts 5 days. Now that I’ve had a chance to read more I realize how important it is that this family is protecting these flowers. They are endangered partly due to their narrow neiche- only feed on one particular vine and must cross pollinate with another flower of the opposite sex all in less than a week of open time. Add to that the loss of forest habitat.
So I’m struck by the thought that especially where economies are challenged, we need an economic value for the environment. Though many want to do the right thing in terms of caring for the environment, they also may face tough choices in supporting their family. When a family like this one can make money from tourists who want to see this rare flower, it gives another incentive to protect it. We need to support these small scale efforts as best we can, because little efforts add up and might make the difference in a species survival.
Now off we went, stopping in Ranau at the bus stop where Paul and I would wait for the bus to Sandakan. Julien was continuing on to the park headquarters where he would catch a transport back to Kota Kinabalu. It was difficult to say goodbye. We’d been through a lot together in three short days. Julien is a much stronger climber, but he had chosen to stick with us as a team throughout the experience, only going ahead to get a shot of the sunrise (where he then waited for us for pictures on Low’s Peak) and to have breakfast set aside for us when we were too slow coming back from the peak. It said much to me of his character. Julien, I do hope our paths cross again – you make a great travel partner and even better friend. Maybe a cross-country ski marathon at the American Birkebeiner or a trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in Minnesota?
Our climb of the mountain was so much more than the physical challenge – the altitude had quite a negative effect on me as well as being hard on the knees. The mountain permitted us to climb her. We had good weather. My will held out even when I was clinging in terror to the rope to pull myself up the steepest rocks and I really didn’t want to do this anymore. Roger was so kind and gentle giving a hand and careful guidance when needed as well as patiently waiting as I stopped to catch my breath every five steps. The emotions of the experience were many and complex. In addition to terror (very limited) and tired, I was honored to walk in a place where so many had walked before me. It was so beautiful to be there with Paul as he returned to the mountain to revisit this portion of his Sabah experience. Reaching the highest point at Low’s Peak was an important experience, but my favorite part was walking on the top of the mountain below the peak. It is a vast open bare landscape that looks like what I imagine the moon to look like. Here and there are bits of vegetation that has managed to survive these harsh conditions, but mostly it’s swirled and patterned grey rock. It’s awe inspiring in it’s simplicity and majesty. It seemed like another world and then in the same day we were back at the park headquarters at the bottom of the mountain and being whisked away in a van.
With all this swirling in my mind, we took one last picture and gave one final wave to Julien and we settled in to wait at the bus stop.
Paul began making friends with all the others who came to wait – the four Australian young ladies who had just finished their mountain climb and the locals with whom he shared the books in his pack of Mt Kinabalu and Borneo. It was fun to see everyone looking at the books with great interest – so many beautiful pictures.
When the bus arrived there were no seats available but with some pleading on our part and the advocacy of a new Malaysian friend we were able to get two plastic stools wedged in by the bathroom and the Australian women got to sit on the floor. Eventually we all got seats as other passengers got off the bus. Thus began our next adventure to Sepilok and Sandakan.
When Mindy looked at Mt Kinabalu from Kota Belud, my home as a teacher in 1971-72, and said “it looks kinda big to me” I didn’t really give it a second thought. After all I had climbed it 4 times in the 70s and what’s a few decades later got to do with it?
Plenty, that’s what. Now 3 days after the climb and my quads and calfs are finally not screaming as I opt for ramps over steps whenever possible. All the accolades and positive comments about being 70 and “oh, you look so fit and great work climbing” were appreciated so the fact remains. I WILL NEVER CLIMB MT KINABALU AGAIN!!
Feels good to say that and to realize that if needed my body can do what’s needed but I now have a new appreciation for moderation in such things. Last night we met a couple here at the Nature Lodge in Sepilok (famous for the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center), rather youthful (30s I imagine) they reached the summit before sunrise (6 am) and were down at Park HQ 3 hours later….6.5 hours that took Mindy and I 15 hours. Without the hiking poles that Mindy urged me to bring along, the downhill steps and drops would have been much more difficult, thanks dear.
Suffice it to say, task accomplished, great photos to share, one grueling story to tell and one great lesson learned.
Witnessing the damage from the 2015 earthquake where 16 climbers and 2 guides were killed by an avalanche was shocking and awe inspiring. The exposed rock broken from the mountain face was bright white under the weathered outer covering and the giant and smaller boulders rolling down the southern face of the summit must have been terrifying at 7 am on June 15, 2015. Our guide Roger Eban (a local Dusan gentleman who has climbed the mountain hundreds of times) will always remember that day even though he was not on the mountain at the time the quake struck.
The boulder below broke off of the mountain face above and rolled down the mountain. Hundreds of these large and small boulders killed 16 Singapore School kids and two guides climbing on fixed ropes near Panar Laban where we spent the night before the summit push. The mountain had a very different feel to it since the last time I climbed in 1973.
By far the best part of the climb was the relationships that were formed with Roger and Julien Derian our new friend from France. When I heard that we had a 27 year old French climber in our group I was concerned that his pace would quickly separate our group and cause problems. Julien not only stayed with us, he was a gentleman, very supportive of our slower pace and we became close friends in a 3 day span which included our post climb dinner and hot springs bath at the Poring Hot Springs 45 minutes around the mountain.
Both he and Roger were very interested in being part of the ceremony to honor my son Chris as the third and final remembrance of leaving his cremains in holy spots during our journey. To me this was the most significant memorial as it was the location I had always wanted to bring Chris to and show him the place where I had so many life altering experiences. He also asked me many questions and enjoyed my stories about my time in Sabah. After reaching the summit (Low’s Peak) about 7:30 am I choose a flat rock not far from the summit where we could have privacy and the view was powerful to the south and the west toward Kota Belud. I shared my piece about Chris’ life and then Mindy, Roger and Julien all added their parts. Roger had also lost a son to a complicated medical problem at age 14 and he powerfully shared his emotions with us. The experience brought us all much closer together for the rest of the slow descent to the National Park HQ.
Julien speaking during the remembrance…he is one year younger than Chris.
The view from our remembrance rock….enjoy the view and remember Chris’ life, struggles and joys. I’ll always be your Dad and love you forever.
Heading down the final 6 km seemed like forever but as we got closer to the park HQ the thought of food, a cold beer and getting to Poring Hot Springs drove us forward. Again, thank you Mindy for having me bring and use my hiking poles. On the way down they were essential for saving my knees.
Before leaving the National Park I received the Kinabalu Park patch
for my collection to sew on my rainbow disc bag and as the clouds cleared and the mountain view opened up there we could clearly see the donkey ears and the route we climbed earlier that morning and it only took 15 hours of body effort. I was so mesmerized by the moment, the camera stayed in my pocket.
And so our journey continues to Sandakan, Sepilok and the Orangutans center, the Kinabatangan River Nature Lodge and the Tabin Wildlife Reserve as we experience more of the magic of this place called Sabah, the Land Below the Wind.
Enjoy a few more photos of the mountain beginning with our early morning ascent – most climbers start from the lodge at Panar Laban at 2:30am (day two of climbing) to try to catch the sunrise at the peak. This means many hours of climbing in the dark by flashlight.
Two more updates from Facebook as we work on the blog entries …
Living in both worlds today
Jungle walk this morning learning about native herbal remedies, local Kota Kinabalu radio…
It’s hard to find the time and enough wifi bandwidth to keep up with our blog. So, for those of you not on Facebook, here are links to a few of Paul’s posts since we arrived in Sabah (if you click on the date link you should be able to see the whole thing on Facebook even if you don’t have an account).
We are currently in the jungle on the Kinabatangan River, but surprisingly have cell coverage sometimes here!
Day 2 in Sabah and the reunion machine is hopping
Many former students and teacher colleagues are organizing a reunion…
Got up at 1:30 am, started climbing in the dark at 2:30, reached the summit at 7:30 am and back to the start at Mt…
A day driving in the rain finds us in Otorohanga North Island in a holiday park (short for RV park) right next to the Kiwi House which is closed now (though we heard a frenzy of bird calls) and we leave early Friday to get to our destination for our April 13 remembrance of my son’s death by suicide on that terrible Friday the 13th one year ago.
We might hear the Kiwi’s (the national endangered bird and symbol of NZ) in the morning but might have to wait to see the flightless bird at another sanctuary on the North Island.
We took the Interislander Ferry yesterday morning from Picton across the Cook Strait to Wellington, the nation’s capital,
and spent the afternoon looking for a NZ T-shirt with the Silver Fern logo and taking the old Cable Car up to lookout hill and the Botanic Gardens. The cable car broke down and the return trip became a lovely 40 minute winding walk through the garden and oldest cemetery in Wellington.
A slow traffic-filled ride to Waikanae
bought us back to our friends Adam, Mishbah, Maya and Maha to return their guide books and spend the evening and share our South Island adventure and enjoy Mishbah’s fabulous cooking. We learned that Adam’s cousin Scot Adams of Eden Prairie and CCL member (the reason we met Adam’s family) is now considering a trip to NZ next year. Feels a bit like a pay it forward experience.
The journey to the Kauri trees north of Auckland is a real haul with our time quickly fleeting. Mindy and I drove over 400 km today with another 400 + tomorrow.
Mindy knows how important this day of remembrance is to me and she is making it a team effort to do it all and remain reasonably sane thru the process. Even with the rain the beauty of the hill country in the central part of the North Island is spell binding.
We stopped at the Levin Library for a rest stop and I picked up a book of US National Parks to show Mindy where Chris and I had gone on our first big adventure to Glacier National Park when he was five. Our first Amtrak trip, visiting Many Glacier Hotel where Uncle Tommy spent many summers working and climbing and our first wilderness camping at Two Medicine Lake near the Continental Divide where we got caught in a hail storm with gale force winds. What was I thinking? Luckily our new Moss tent held strong as Christopher calmly played with his legos while the stormed raged outside.
Remembering the amazing trips and moments we had together and as a family and community seems to be the best way to honor who Chris was/ is and to keep alive the spirit of love we have for each other.
More to come has we move toward April 13. Heard from Mary Fink, our house/ Pickles sitter, that it is snowing back home just like the huge snowstorm that hit last year the day and weekend after Chris’ death.
The cycles of life are truly remarkable.
A number of years ago I borrowed a spinning wheel from a friend for the winter and took a spinning class at the Textile Center with the Weavers Guild in Minneapolis. There I learned about different spinning wheels, but particularly about Ashford wheels made in New Zealand. So yet another reason I wanted to come to New Zealand was to see the home of these world-famous spinning wheels. There where many things Paul and I wanted to see and do on this visit, but my “number one don’t want to miss” activity finally happened today. We spent the night in Ashburton, New Zealand and today I spent half my day at the Ashford Craft Center testing different wheels, looking at yarns, re-learning about fibers and making different selections. I was pretty sure I wanted to buy a wheel before going into the Ashford Craft Center, and after over an hour of testing the different models, I knew one was going to my home. Spinning is a full-body experience. Especially with the two-pedal wheel I selected – it takes both feet, both hands and lots of thought to turn the sliver into yarn. Then there is the gentle clack of the pedals, the hum of the spinning wheel, the texture of the fiber in my hands. And it takes lots of practice. It took me awhile to remember the general technique with lots of coaching from Rose. But then she left me to it to help other customers, checking back every so often to answer questions and give me tips. Finally I decided on the Kiwi 3.
A compact design that will fit in our compact living room more easily – the double pedals on this model fold up for storage. They will ship it to my house to arrive just after I do. I selected a variety of fiber in the form of sliver – ready for spinning – of different types and colors. It may take me years to get through all I bought, but I’m up to the challenge. I am already searching websites for where to get more fiber when I get home. I may take another class to refresh my memory and gain more skill. I know where all the materials are from my previous class. And a fleece someone gave me awhile back. We’ve seen many sheep on our travels throughout New Zealand and I bought one skein of yarn to do some knitting along the way – it helps me relax after a tense day of driving. Now I’ll be dreaming of spinning and knitting and crochet, oh my. Soon I’ll have to learn to weave and dye my own wool. No shortage of new challenges ahead. My photographer was elsewhere, so not much to show of my spinning and shopping time.
And where was Paul during my hours at Ashford Craft Shop? Golfing with our friend, Cary, who drove down from Nelson to see us again. I’ll let him tell you about that…
After my time surrounded by beautiful human made crafts, I took the opportunity not enjoy some more of nature’s made beauty at the Ashford Domain garden. Families where out enjoying the beautiful nSunday in the park too and the gardens were stunning! Many flowers in bloom and magnificent trees that have been here for the long term. Also ducks and one swan enjoying g the pond.
Our day ended with dinner together at the Phat Duck with huge plates full to fill our large appetites after much outdoor time today.
“The roads are different here.” It even says this on the road signs. And it’s very true. Driving on the left is different enough for us, but add to that the narrow two lane roads with little to no shoulder, sharp curves and one lane bridges and you start to see what they mean. And those are the major state highways. Very often the speed limit sign says 100 kph and we say “are they kidding?” Definitely not in our Toyota Hiace camper van. I can hear Pat Olmstead saying “Just cause the speed limit’s 100, doesn’t mean you have to go that fast.” And we don’t. There are passing lanes and pull over spots to let the faster traffic pass us by. We enjoy going at a slower pace. So we pull over often. Sometimes to enjoy the view, sometimes to stretch our legs, often just to let them pass. It’s nice when we are on the road at non-rush times so we don’t have as much traffic to let past. And did I mention that a white dotted line usually means two way traffic? Just to keep us on our toes. We’ve become much more comfortable as the time goes on, but we still take plenty of brakes in the day and try to keep the number of kilometers traveled on a given day to a lower number. Traveling at the speed of vacation. All the semi trucks are split trailers in order to make it around the curves.
Here are some road sample pictures for you: